Part 1 : 2011, the year in review.
I want to thank all of you who have ordered plants and seeds over the past year and I'm honored with your continuing support! As a part time researcher, your orders serve as effective donations so that I can continue to research and study Desert plants in the wild and evaluate them for introduction.
I really didn't know what to expect when starting this business online after selling plants on a local basis since the late 90s. Being the first full year on the Internet I didn't know if I'd get one order or a thousand, so I approached it with an elevated degree of excitement. Luckily the orders fell on the lower end of the scale as to better address any potential problems that could arise where you can never anticipate every problem ahead of time. I'm delighted the process has gone smoothly.
Thank you again for your support!
Kreg Hines
Part 2: Designing your garden.
Though I'm not a professional landscaper by trade, I have accumulated a ton of knowledge over the years and consider myself on the forefront of Desert landscape design and theory and I try to share that information as much as possible when conversing with other researchers and interested people, so I guess it was inevitable that I would write an article on the subject, at least a short one, to cover the basics. I'm always experimenting with new ideas and concepts so the following information will most likely be modified over time. That being said, their are many factors to consider if your planning a Desert garden including:
Use of area: Is the area nearby or within to be used by children or pets? If so, then you need to consider container gardens or highly raised beds bordering common areas such as a lawn, street/sidewalk, swimming pool, or large patio. As in nature, the Desert garden landscape is quite fragile and is not tolerant of heavy foot traffic when the soil is disturbed on a regular basis.
Type of Desert garden: Yes indeed, their are different types of Desert gardens. Essentially it can be broken down into two basic types. One with supplementary water ( such as a drip line ) and one without, where the landscape is dependant solely upon the natural rainfall. A third type would be a combination of the two where you have the true drought resistant plants in the high areas and the semi-drought resistant plants in the low lying areas where water would normally collect and run through. This third type is perhaps the most common where water use is kept to a minimum but is utilized to maintain a lush look throughout the hot Summer months.
Limiting external factors: This mainly applies to the area or property outside of the planned garden that can have a direct impact, primarily as a maintenance factor. Examples are if your property is adjacent to open habitat where wild animals ( such as browsing animals like deer ) or noxious weeds can freely enter or if their are large trees close by which can drop large amounts of leaves in the Fall onto the landscape. These factors can limit your choices since Desert gardens are inherently designed for minimal impact and maintenance and can be harder to do so when external factors can overwhelm it.
Homeowners Associations: In larger metropolitan areas of the country, many subdivision developments have homeowners associations that are created to enforce and maintain rules to maximize property value. Restrictions can include exterior paint colors, types of fencing ,vehicles parked in the street or driveways, and particular types of landscaping. When it comes to landscaping their can be a number of restrictions if the set rules are for grass only. Under these conditions you can apply or ask for a waiver to proceed with your Desert landscape. Their have been many stories in the news about homeowners battling their associations that have an entrenched lawn culture mentality. In many cases the homeowner went ahead with the changes without permission from the association and could have avoided the situation if allowed due process. Associations can vary greatly from place to place in the degree of strictness, so when in doubt, always ask first. With considerable attention being paid in recent times to water conservation, particularly in West, many associations are loosening up their rules on grass only yards.
Planning step 1: Contact local or regional resources. Perhaps no one knows your local environment better than the locals themselves. Since environments can differ drastically depending on your location it's a good starting point to contact local or regional resources such as existing Desert landscape owners or landscapers if you have them. Their are also many Cactus & Succulent Societies around the country and you just may have one near you.
Planning step 2: Exposure. The area in question should have an open view and be free of large deciduous trees. Pine, cedar & juniper are ok if their under 30 feet in height since they drop their foliage comparatively straight below them and therefore don't disperse so easily in the wind.
Planning step 3: Drainage. Drainage is an essential water management tool in the Desert Garden. The emphasis here is to avoid a flat landscape in order to isolate dry areas from damp areas. Plants such as cactus, yuccas, and drought tolerant perennials should be elevated up to three feet or more above the surrounding area while the semi drought resistant plants such as Ice Plant ( Delosperma ) , Hummingbird mint ( Agastache) and so on should be placed in the lower areas in between where the water would normally collect and run through. A common approach that works very well is to include a dry wash or series of dry washes that snake or zigzag through the yard that flow away from your homes foundation with the starting point directly below your homes downspouts. A drip line can be ran down the dry wash to provide the supplementary water for plants requiring additional moisture during the hot Summer months.
Planning step 4: Amend soil. In almost 100% of all situations, you'll likely have to amend your soil in some way.
There are two primary reasons this is necessary for your plants to succeed and thrive. The first is to enhance drainage directly around the plants as to avoid any standing water, which can be fatal. The second primary reason is to minimize soil compaction over time so that the root system can expand more freely, resulting in strong growth. How much soil amendment you use depends on the size of the plant to be planted. In part 3 below I have extensive information on how to formulate a good soil mixture to amend your soil and how much to use.
Planning step 5: Plant selection: Always consider how large the plant will get over time and not how big it is at the time of planting. For small trees and large yuccas, avoid planting them in places where their is solid bedrock or layers of caliche which can't be broken through that are immediately beneath the top soil. This is less critical if the area is naturally sloped, the objective being is that water overall needs to be absorbing down or away from larger plants. Water management for smaller plants can be controlled by mounding and sculpting of the landscape with less regard for underlying hard layers. Sun Exposure, cold hardiness, and maintenance are a few of the considerations when selecting individual plants. On the following plant pages ( Cactus, Succulents & Perennials) , I provide as much information about each plant so that you can make an informed decision to minimize the guesswork. Whether you buy plants from here or at a local nursery, always take into account the conditions under which a plant grows naturally to maximize compatibility with the one it's being put into.
For most cactus plants, as a maintenance factor, I highly recommend keeping them away from any plants that are deciduous as to avoid the leaves getting stuck in the spines. For cactus plants requiring part shade, I recommend using larger cactus such as chollas or trunk forming yuccas such as Yucca elata, rostrata, and thompsoniana as examples of providing a loose overhead canopy. Additionally you can utilize large rocks or structures ( such as a house or even on East facing slopes ) to take advantage of their afternoon shade patterns during the hottest part of the day.
Part 3: Overview of soil mixtures
Perhaps the most misunderstood and under informed aspect of Desert landscaping is the soil mixture in which the plants are placed into. A common misperception is that a Desert plant will survive upon planting as long as the area is hot and dry enough to accommodate it. This approach typically ends in premature death of the plant. Aside from water, perhaps the second most important aspect is the soil it's planted into. Seasoned gardeners and farmers know the importance of soil fertility to maximize plant health and yields for the harvest. With Desert landscaping, and all other kinds of landscaping for that matter, this is no different in order to have a thriving garden and, when you break it down into its most basic components, it still comes down to good soil and water. In Desert regions of the world most plants have adapted to particular conditions that are favorable for their survival. Most cacti and succulents have adapted to sandy, rocky, elevated slopes or even steep canyon walls where the drainage is sharp and competition from other plants are at a minimum. This also minimizes potential danger from wildfires that ravage more densely vegetated areas during hot spells. Other Desert plants are associated with water sources such as a spring, dry wash or riverbank habit where the plants can survive the intense heat as long as their deep roots are connected to a water source.
Types of soil mixtures: Their are two basic types of soil mixture that I've formulated for maximum health that is based on the conditions that the plants would normally grow or do better in. Type 1 is for drought resistant plants ( including most cactus and succulent plants ) requiring little or no additional moisture once established and Type 2, which is for drought resistant plants that require additional moisture ( such as Desert Willow ( Chilopsis ) and Hummingbird Mint ( Agastache ) etc. ) to retain normal hydration and, or maintain a flowering cycle through the Summer. These are plants that are associated with a spring, dry wash, or riverbank within a Desert region where their is an available water source. In addition, some of these plants are from regions that receive most of their rainfall in Summer monsoons and have adapted their flowering cycle accordingly.
The 4 essential ingredients: Their are four essential ingredients to make the ideal soil mixture for your Desert garden. Depending on where you live, you may not have access to all of these ingredients and will have to make due with what you have available locally. Both soil mixes contain the same ingredients, but in different ratios. I've tweaked this many times over the years and am confident this is about as good as it gets.
1. Crushed volcanic cinder: Full of air pockets, this material provides excellent air circulation around the plant base and root zone. In addition, because of it's volcanic origin, it contains essential iron that promotes a deeper green color and strong growth. Most often sold as "cinder fines" or "3/8ths minus" cinder at most nurseries, it typically contains pieces from 1/2 inch down to fine powder.
2. Mortar sand: This can also be called "builders sand". This material most commonly consists of silica, granite, or similar metamorphic minerals which can help promote strong structural density in plants in much the same way calcium and silica supplements promote strong hair, skin, nails, and bones in humans and other animals. In addition, it also contributes to good drainage around the plant base and root zone. Many Desert plants have adapted to sandy habits and will be right at home with plenty of this in your mixture. Gravel pits are the best and cheapest place to buy this material where you can select the finest grade possible.
3. Potting soil: This material consists of mostly shredded wood and, or bark in combination with smaller amounts of peat moss, leaf mold, clay, sand and, sometimes, volcanic cinder or pumice that is aged over several weeks or months, depending on the brand. Some brands also fortify it with trace minerals and, or fertilizers for an extra boost. You may have to try several brands out before finding one that gives you the best results. Potting soil contributes additional aeration and anti-compaction properties to the overall mixture but should be used sparingly in mixtures for very water sensitive plants as it dries more slowly than it's mineral counterparts. In addition it can be very acidic in nature and can affect some Desert plants that are accustomed to more alkaline soils.
4. Top soil: Used primarily for moisture retention in the soil mixture, this is also used somewhat sparingly in Desert mixes.
As with potting soil, you may have to shop around for the best quality. Keep in mind that top soil doesn't have to go through a sterilization process like potting soil and can contain thousands of weed seeds, so look for sellers who keep their outdoor stock clean or, if your buying by the bag, inspect it for seeds sprouting in the mixture.
The ratios:
1. Crushed volcanic cinder, 3 parts
2. Mortar, or builders sand, 1 part.
For these first two ingredients, mix in a ratio of 3 parts cinder to 1 part sand and keep separately from the third and forth ingredients until later.
3. High quality potting soil, 3 parts.
4. Top soil, 1 part.
For the third and forth ingredients, mix in a ratio of 3 parts potting soil to 1 part top soil. Make sure to break up any dirt clods in the top soil before and during mixing. Keep these ingredients separate from the first two until later, when you'll be deciding which soil type ( 1 or 2 ) is best for your plant selections.
Type 1 soil mixture: 3 to 1 ratio. For most cactus, succulent, and drought resistant perennials requiring no additional moisture once established.
Mix 3 parts of the cinder/sand mixture to 1 part of the potting soil/top soil mixture. For large perennials, cactus and succulents that can get over three feet in height or width, I recommend a minimum of three feet under and around each plant. For smaller hedgehog or barrel cactus I recommend a minimum of 6 inches under and two feet around each plant. Of course the wider and deeper you go, the better results you'll get.
Type 2 soil mixture: 1 to 1 ratio. For drought resistant plants requiring additional supplementary water during the heat of Summer.
Mix equal parts of the cinder/sand mixture to the potting soil/top soil mixture. For small trees, large perennials or succulent plants that can get over three feet in height or width, I recommend a minimum of of three feet under and around each plant. For smaller perennials and succulent ground covers that stay under three feet in height or width, I recommend a minimum of six inches under and up to three feet around each plant.
Rock covers: Rock covers over your soil mixtures add color and dimension to the overall Desert landscape architecture, however, over the years I've realized that a layer of larger stone over the soil mixture can actually trap additional moisture at the surface which, in turn, can lead to root rot and weed control issues over the long term. Ideally you want the surface to dry out as quickly as possible, so having a solid layer actually delays this process by several hours or even days if you have a deep covering more than 3-4 inches deep.
What I recommend now instead of a solid cover as seen in figure 2, I recommend the rock be more widely scattered a few inches apart and slightly buried in the soil mixture below so that the underlying mixture can "breathe" freely. I've done experiments using just soil mixture itself without any cover, which works great, but unfortunately discovered that this also attracts every cat from the surrounding neighborhood to the areas biggest litter box. A great example of unintended consequences! What thwarted the cats in the first place was the heavy rock layer, so I began to gradually reintroduce golf ball to fist sized rocks back into the landscape and discovered the cats stopped their activities when the density reached 1 to 3 inches apart.
Rocks that work best are preferably golf ball to fist size and are as rounded as possible ( like tumbled river rock ) and buried at least half way into the soil mixture below to anchor them. Rounded is important as a weed control tip where rough rock will snag passing weed seeds more easily when blown in by the wind. I don't recommend using flat or step stones either as they have a tendency to attract ant colonies and other insect vermin. For the same reason, select larger boulders going into the landscape that are rounded like a potato or egg shape and bury them with the more pointed tip down, never laying flat on the surface.
